Las Islas Encantadas

Revisiting the Enchanted Galápagos

Mattias Klum, National Geographic Explorer and Photograper

It is quite some years since I first set foot on the Galápagos Islands, located some 950 kilometres west of continental Ecuador. I was on assignment for National Geographic and had done some research beforehand, but nothing I had seen or read could fully prepare me for this experience. Since then, I have been back a number of times for different projects, and I’ve worked on most of the twenty-one islands of this archipelago. Every single time it’s such a privilege and so much to see and learn. The mountains, the sea, the Scalesia forest, the rugged black lava cliffs and the completely unique and, for the most part, endemic fauna and flora blew me away. It’s an incomparable hotspot of biodiversity harbouring over 2,900 known species of fish, a vast number of invertebrates, and many marine mammals, the world’s only marine iguana, endemic seabirds, and the world’s highest abundance of sharks. Of these marine animals, roughly 60 are included on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. There is an ongoing volcanic activity from the mountain landscape of the Galápagos Islands.

The archipelago is reached by four major ocean currents, including cold upwellings of deep water rich in nutrients. Coexisting at this junction are tropical and temperate species typically found farther south. Many are found nowhere else on Earth, and their unique characteristics famously inspired Charles Darwin’s theory of evolution by natural selection. Scientists have studied these complex ecosystems for nearly 200 years. When Stefano Ricci reached out through my old friend Terry Garcia, I became excited over the prospect of returning, and this time with another slightly different focus. My first contact was a video call with Filippo and Gianluca which gave me comfort about the project. Humans and nature, side by side, in this remote place. The aesthetics of this high-end Italian brand visualised in this remote and extraordinary place felt relevant. Since the worlds of exploration and sustainability are close to my heart, my assistant Jean and I enthusiastically agreed to work with the Stefano Ricci team and shared emotions with Niccolò on this unique project. We started our journey of discovery in this world apart at the Charles Darwin Foundation Research Station. My own explorations had already started as a boy in Dalarna, Sweden. I ventured out on miniexpeditions, exploring nature around our summer house. I sneaked up on loons, beavers, owls, snakes and frogs with a camera I borrowed from my father. When I started taking photographs professionally in 1985-86, it was clear to me that capturing or visualising what had moved me in nature would become the backbone of my entire career. Fragile ecosystems, endangered species and ethnic minorities in peril became my niche, and my assignments for the epic magazine took me exploring on all continents.

I love the feeling of being in a place where no one might have been before. These days it’s pretty hard to find places like that, but the sensation of discovery is found on so many levels, both geographically and aesthetically. Seeing things, small or big, that are there for you to experience and enjoy represents a remarkable sensation. The fact that our planet’s natural systems, when healthy and resilient, are support systems, not only for nature itself but also for humanity, is more relevant than ever. Everything is connected to everything else. What we do in one corner of the planet now affects, in real-time, living conditions for fellow citizens in other parts of the planet. Due to this, we can no longer act locally to further global development; we must also act globally to further local development. No matter how well environmental policies are applied in places such as the Galápagos, their continued success now depends on the actions of other nations, regions, and economic sectors. Environmental protection can only succeed in combination with planetary stewardship. My goal has always been to try to elevate the understanding, appreciation and awareness of our natural world and the interdependence between humans and nature. Regardless of the fact that I have made documentaries, book projects, exhibitions and lectures, the ambition has always been to, through imagery and stories from our incredible world, bridge the gap between our remarkable human mind and our warm emotional heart, between IQ and EQ, if you will. With the current obstacles and challenges facing us all, I strongly believe that by safeguarding the remaining beauty on Earth we have a fair chance of securing a prosperous future within planetary boundaries and a safe operating space for humanity. When we explore, we get to know our world a little better, and what we get to know on a deeper level we cherish and become fascinated by, and ultimately, what we cherish we are more inclined to love, safeguard and keep for the future.